Malawi - Part 2

 Wednesday, June 19, 2024

 

Yes, we were up at 5:30 am to catch the jeep run at 6:00. It was a bit painful but well worthwhile. We headed out again to specifically look for birds as well as anything else that crossed out paths. I have fallen in love with an enormous Boab tree not far from the gate so that was our first stop, of course for a photograph. We then stopped again nearby because Henry had noticed a trail of lion tracks moving in the same direction we were. There was no lion in our future today but the tracks were certainly large and distinctive. We also stopped to examine some elephant dung.

They leave large piles of it wherever they go. Interestingly (perhaps to some) elephants do not digest their food very well. They have only one stomach and that makes them far less efficient than ruminants (more than one stomach). So they leave food for other animals to eat. It sounds disgusting to me but the animals love it. When the birds, the hyenas and other rodents have eaten their share, the termites move in and finish it off.  Consequently, what appears to be a big mess on the road is in fact a lifeline for many.  Hmmm.

 

Baboons were out in huge numbers today. Apparently one troop (family) can have more than one hundred members. It was fun to watch them watch us, especially with the little ones frolicking freely, up and down trees with dexterity and daring as they swung from one branch to the next. They prefer certain kinds of trees because of the fruits that grow on them. We also saw large numbers of impala, a graceful animal, as they were out searching for breakfast. The lions like to eat them but morning is relatively safe since the lions have prowled all night and are now sleeping it off.

 

Waterbuck were also roaming about in large numbers. They are distinctive because of the white circle they have around their rumps.

Once again we went down to the Shire River and were rewarded with the presence of five, yes five hippos. All of them were in the water but visible … several adults and a couple of younger ones. What a beautiful sight. (Jim had seen two hippos grazing in a pasture yesterday morning while I slept in!)

We were also fortunate to see many bird species along the bank. Henry is an expert at spotting them and identifying them. Once again, they did not pose for photos so we will have to rely on our memories or bird books to keep them in mind. Speckled weavers, guinea fowls and blue waxbills were among the species we saw. Vultures were circling high overhead suggesting that there might have been a ‘kill’ they would like to share.

 

It was time to return to the lodge and get ready to leave. Breakfast was ready when we returned and again we sat with our new friends from Birmingham. We were regaled at the waterhole with an impressive show of animals who arrived to bid us farewell. First came the impalas, regulars at the lodge. Elephants followed them, thirteen in all, moms, young ones and a baby. Next came the zebras, four of them. As they left, the waterbucks arrived and soon the male elephant made his presence known.

The waterhole cleared to give him space. Except for the warthogs who seemed not to notice the elephant’s arrival. He stood beside one of them and startled him so much that he fell into the water. The warthogs quickly scattered. It was a cause for greater laughter among the humans!

 

Once the large elephant left the scene other animals reappeared. The area beyond the waterhole had the most animals and the greatest variety that we had ever seen. It was a great way to bid farewell to Thawale Lodge.

 

Our driver, Ephraim, had arrived to take us to our next destination, Liwonde National Park and Mvuu Lodge. We retraced our route over the rugged road, through the small villages, up the mountainside and down again into Blantyre. It was beginning to look familiar now … the route, the buildings and especially the ATM, where Jim withdrew another load of kwacha. Two thousand kwacha still equal $1.60 in Canada. Here though, you can buy a cappuccino for 2000 kwacha.

 

We travelled north out of Blantyre along busy roads. School had just dismissed and there were children of all ages in uniforms of many colours all over the road. No kidding … some of them were walking along a narrow median separating the lanes of a fast-moving four lane divided highway. No school busses or parents in sight, simply long walks home. We continued through countryside that was quite agricultural – large gardens, fields of corn, animals roaming, small herds of cattle. Small villages dotted the landscape, each one with lively roadside commerce.

Corn was widely available and tomatoes seemed to be in season. Familiar now, women carrying large parcels on their heads; motorbikes loaded with oversized bags of goods;

women and men carrying crippling loads of firewood on their backs or shoulders.

 

Ephraim kept pointing out a particular mountain to us, saying that that was where we were going. When we got closer, it became clear that the mountaintop was where we were going. Up and up, round and round, up some more with many steep slopes and curves along the way. Finally, we reached the top and there was the Sunbird Kuchawa Hotel. What a beautiful piece of property and a luxury hotel. We would probably never have chosen this location but we are grateful that Saira, our trip planner, did. We settled into our room, had room service for dinner and requested a fire be built in the very real fireplace in our room.

 

It was a short evening, having risen at 5:30 am. Early to bed, ready for another adventure tomorrow.

 

Thursday, June 20, 2024

 

The adventure started early this morning. Jim and I both got up early, having had lots of sleep last night. I worked on the diary and some photos while Jim researched the next phase of our journey. Breakfast arrived in our room and was delicious. Jim had a full breakfast and I had yogurt, granola and fruit. We have a door that opens onto a courtyard. The door was slightly ajar. All of a sudden there was a huge noise. A baboon was at our open door, probably smelling the food. We managed to get the door closed but it was a close call. He could have been in our room. Whew!! More care next time!!

 

Our driver, Jordan, arrived and we set out for our next destination, Mvuu. Mvuu is the African word for hippo so we feel quite certain we will see at least one. The first part off the journey was along roads that were becoming familiar. We had to pass through Zomba, the previous capital city in Malawi. We stopped to take a look the old Parliament House, now a court house where the high court meets. Jim wanted to take a photo of the building but our driver told him he would need permission. So into the courthouse they went. Jim asked the guard at the door if he could take a photo. The response was, “That is not for me to say.” Jim was directed to the office of the Chief Justice where he asked the same question. The Chief Justice granted permission so we now have a photo of the old courthouse.

 

Back on the road, we are becoming accustomed to the crowded villages, the roadsides markets, women with firewood on their heads, motorbikes with three people and a load of something, regular police stops, potholes you could get lost in. The list goes on. After about three hours, we finally arrived at HippoView Lodge. That was not our final destination, though. It was simply the place where we boarded the boat that carried us several miles down the Shire River to Mvuu Lodge.

The trip took about an hour but we were rewarded with the sight of several hippos along the way

 

Mvuu Lodge is a remote resort with a lodge and camp. We are staying in Cottage 7 in the lodge. It is a long way from everything so the staff have provided jeep transportation to and from our cottage as well as the dining area. How generous is that!! We had barely arrived when it was time to have a quick lunch and go out on our first game run.

 

The landscape here is very different Majete where the bush was quite dense and easily hid the wildlife. Here, the dry season is much more dominant and there is very little grass or low vegetation. Many of the trees have lost their leaves entirely. The predominant component of the soil is sand. Roadways are fettered with deep ruts, created during the wet season. The jeep ride was bumpy and a bit rocky, leaning side to side. I was in the front seat again (the jeeps were higher here than at Majete) which I could access using a somewhat rickety step stool. There was no door on the jeep so, from time to time, if felt like I might fall out. But I did not …

 

We travelled along and immediately saw many animals. Because the landscape was more wide open it was easy to spot the wildlife. Impala (Jim calls then little bambis) dominated the landscape at first but then we moved into more serious game. A large elephant came out of the bush onto the road. Naturally, we stopped to give him the right of way. Next came the sable antelope (two long horns and a mane),

bushbucks, and more kudus. More impala attracted our attention. While they tend to travel as families by day, at night they cluster together. Safety in numbers as the lions and cougars search for food. Two more large elephants were in a small clearing. One of them was very unhappy about our presence and raised his voice, flapped his ears and began to move toward the jeep. Our drive immediately pressed the gas pedal and moved quickly out of range of the elephant. No question who was in charge of the jungle!

 

We saw lion and hyena tracks, waterbuck, and guinea fowls. A baboon troop crossed the road in front of us. Closer to the water we found several hippos that had come onto dry land to feed (they eat up to 40 kg of grass each night!) We heard a lion roar in the distance. As dark fell, nyalla (a dark coloured antelope), warthogs, a jaguar and a pair of porcupines became part of the repertoire for tonight.

 

We stopped at the edge of the Shire River for a sundown snack. The sky was perfectly clear and the sunset was beautiful.

We watched several birds swooping into the river for food and others perched in trees. The moon was beautifully full which slightly diminished the stars in the sky. Nonetheless it was a lovely evening. (Sidebar: we are close to the equator and thus dark falls suddenly and daylight comes in the same way. No long lingering evenings here. It is either day or night!)

 

We returned to the lodge for dinner, a feast for the eyes and palate. Although it was still early evening, it was pitch dark and felt very much like time for bed. Another full day awaits tomorrow.

 

Friday, June 21, 2024

 

The morning started early as we rose for the morning game run. Previously, the jeeps left at 5:30 am but it was now too dark at that time so now the ride begins at 6:00. Another half hour of sleep.

 

It was exciting the moment we left our cabin. A baboon was right outside and a bit down the path was an impala. Lions were roaring in the distance. In the jeep, it did not take long for the drama to continue. We encountered a very large elephant, clearly in musk (that means he wants to mate) who was determined to walk along the path we were on. It did not take our driver, Justin, long to decide to turn around and get out of his way.

 

The morning drive continued. We saw a hippo grazing in the bush (was he not supposed to have returned to the water by now?) We encountered a female lion who was settling in for a nap. We saw a family of warthogs heading across the landscape. A jaguar was posed at the edge of the bush.

A male kudu with impressive horns and several waterbucks were spotted in the bush also. We saw a hippo in a waterhole (he would stay there all day) and two young female lions (probably sisters)

licking and rubbing one another as they relaxed under the trees. The nearby baboons were very upset about the presence of the lions and growled aggressively and repeatedly. The lions had no intention of moving.

 

We stopped for a morning coffee break at the edge of the river. What a wonderful place to watch for birds. Egrets, herons, hornbills, geese, storks, vultures, ibis, kingfishers and bee-eaters were among the species we saw. Jim had a hayday with his camera!

 

We also visited an area that was once a forest and is now a sandy plain, having been decimated by elephants who destroyed all the trees, not once but twice!! It looks like a wasteland now but will likely return to life in the future. Who knew that elephants like to eat tree bark and wood? Apparently certain species of trees have wood that is filled with water and nourish the elephants. After the first decimation, the park decided to plant baobab trees.

It turns out that elephants also love baobab trees and will stand on their hind legs to reach the bark far up the trunk. All the boababs in the area were killed.

Now the park has wrapped 150 boabab trees with mesh wire to attempt to prevent the elephants from killing more trees. According to Justin, the plan is working and more trees with be wrapped to preserve them.

 

Another tree that is fascinating is the calendra tree. It has a sturdy trunk and all of its foliage resembles thick cacti with grow tall out of the trunk. A large tree might have as many as 100 of these ‘leaves’. And the blossoms, a bright yellow, bloom on top of the ‘leaves’. They are absolutely beautiful and in some areas, the bush  is loaded with them.

 

And finally, it was breakfast time. Much appreciated nourishment … and delicious! We spent the balance of the morning overlooking a beautiful lagoon, visiting with various staff and reflecting on our experience so far at Mvuu. We are sure there is more to come.

 

Shortly after lunch, we headed out on another game run. Our driver, Justin, certainly knows his stuff. It was not long before we started to see several different animals. In fact, baboons and impala were along the path we walked to get to the jeep. We always have to be accompanied by a staff person to ensure that nothing dangerous lies in our way … especially elephants and lions. We boarded the jeep and headed off into the wilderness again. We were primarily looking for birds on this trip and were well rewarded – bohm’s bee-eater, mave starling, brown hooded fisher, fish eagle lapwing, long-toed lapwing, gros ibis, white ibis were among the birds we saw. Of course, we had never before seen most of these so we were on a huge learning curve. We also saw several impala (almost ho hum, they are so common), baboons (likewise), waterbucks and kudu. Kudu are large animals with impressive horns. It is good to keep out of their way. We drove several kilometres on a variety of roads seeking cheetah, rhinoceros, and lions with no success. We thought we might see hippos in the grass again but even they were not apparent. We stopped in a field for a beverage and snack to watch the sunset. The sky was speckled with dark clouds that surrounded the sun but did not cover it. We were able to watch a spectacular sunset and the rise of an African sky, bright red, yellow, orange in contrast to the clouds. It was the sunset you see in movies set in Africa. Absolutely glorious!!

Dark fell and it was time to return home. Then … Several jeeps leave at the same time and go in different directions. The drivers keep in touch through radio communication and the word came out that a lion was in the vicinity. The location was shared and we were on our way. Indeed, there was a lion, a large male lion,

lying in the dark, totally relaxed and seemingly bored with the gathering of jeeps. He stretched; he yawned several times; he rolled over; and then he arose. He walked several metres away from us and paused. Not sure what was going to happen next, we waited with anticipation. And he ROARED and roared and roared. Some were short and many were long. It was a very impressive show and the audience was delighted. He finally sauntered off down the road and our driver once again turned the jeep toward our lodge. But the evening was not yet done. A hippo appeared out of nowhere and ran right in from of the jeep. Everyone was startled … and who knew a hippo could run that fast. It was quite a sight. And then we went to the lodge. After getting up at 5:30 am, 9:30 seemed like a good bedtime. Another day was done. We have only one day left at this at this amazing place, Mvuu.

 

Saturday, June 22, 2024

 

5:30 came early again but it was well worth it. Again the jeeps all left at 6 am and by 6:10, the call had come in. Lions!! Sure enough, we drove to the designated location and found two female lions and several cubs, resting in the sand, well camouflaged in the early dawn.

Not far away was a male lion, lying alone, keeping a close eye on the jeep and his ladies. Lions prowl at night and sleep by day. They were all ready to have a nap. None of them moved and they were hard to see but they were there!! It was exciting to see them in the wild.

 

By contrast, the rest of the morning drive was quiet. Of course, there were impala to watch, still gathered in their night groups. We did see many baboons of all sizes. One troop was climbing a tree that produced one of their favourite fruits. Impala stood below the tree

and hoped for fruit to fall as it is also a favourite for impalas. What a lovely relationship the animals have. We also encountered a huge elephant, probably the same one we saw yesterday. Justin was not willing to get too close because the elephant is on the hunt for a partner and would not appreciate the intrusion. We saw kudu, now familiar, and sable antelope, a new find. They are large and graceful and the males have impressive horns. They run gracefully and fast. A lovely sight. We also saw a great mongoose, a civet cat and a herd of waterbucks. We travelled through the rhinoceros area with no success. There are only 30 rhinos in the park and they are a shy breed. It is tough to see them. Cheetahs are the same … active at night and elusive by day.

 

It was a cold day in the open jeep and we were happy to be inside enjoying a warm breakfast when we returned. Jim and I headed back to our cabin for a rest and some writing. A shower was nice as well, good hot water with lots of pressure. We are so busy each day that it is hard to find time to shower.

 

Later in the day we went on a sunset cruise on the Shire River. It was quite remarkable what could be seen in and from the river. The sun was high in the sky and the water was glistening. The river is particularly large this year because of the unexpected volume of rain into Lake Malawi which feeds the Shire River. Banks are flooded and a lot of vegetation is under water. Termite colonies have died since they are not able to reach land for food. Trees have died because their root system has been covered in water. And water hyacinth has taken over the edges. Water hyacinth is a newly introduced plant to this area and has spread extremely rapidly. It is not a welcome species since neither the hippos in the water nor any of the land animals like to eat it.

 

Speaking of hippos, we did not have to travel far before seeing the cute pink ears of the hippos rise above the water.

Hippos can hold their breath for a very long time but they have to surface to breathe. They live in family groupings, up to about 10 hippos in a family. They have a territory in the water and one on land for their night feeding. As long as they respect the boundaries there is no conflict between families. Hippos can be very aggressive and we saw at least one dead hippo floating in the water due to a fight. (Three days later is was totally gone because the crocodiles ate it!) As we travelled along the river, we saw at least 50 hippos. It is estimated that there are 3000 hippos in and around the river.

 

Now, speaking of crocodiles, we saw several that were basking in the late afternoon sun along the banks of the river.

No swimming in this water. Some of them crawled back into the water as we came near. Other stayed in place, watching us closely. One opened his jaw wide and we got a good look at this teeth. I think it was a warning of what could happen.

 

We saw a kudo (large dark coloured elusive antelope) on the shore as well as the more common impala. We also saw many bird species – kingfishers searching for fish, a hungry fish eagle surveying the river from high in a tree, a jacana, herons on the shore, geese flying overhead. This is a river that feeds mammals, reptiles and birds.

 

Back to hippos, as dark falls they move to land where the feed on the grass and other plants. We watched a mom lead her baby onto the land And then return to the water for safety as we drew closer.

 

And then it was time to enjoy the sunset, another remarkable display of colour reflected in the river water and filling the sky. We enjoyed a beverage and a snack as we watched the sun sink quickly below the horizon. Dark comes rapidly after the sun sets so we turned the boat in the direction of the lodge so as to be off the water before dark.

 

It was approaching dinner time when we got back but we had time to sit on the tiny beach and enjoy the crackling of the dry wood in a firepit. Other lodge guests joined us and we became acquainted with people for the UK, Switzerland, South Africa, Vermont and Ireland. What an international group it was! And all ages as well. The conversation was lively and the time passed quickly until the manager of the lodge came to tell us dinner was served. As always dinner was superb, beautifully presented, elegantly served, far too much food, but absolutely delicious. I have learned to ask for half portions and I cannot even eat all of that.

 

We returned to our cabin, as always, accompanied by staff who are on the lookout for lions and elephants. As we reached the path to our cabin, we did hear a lion roar from close range. We moved a little more quickly then and secured ourselves in the cabin. It had been a very busy day with the view of once again arising at 5:30 am tomorrow. It was easy to get to sleep.

 

Sunday, June 23, 2024

 

It was time for us to say farewell to Mvuu. But not before a final early morning game run. And it was very rewarding.  We first saw impala and waterbucks foraging for food. But then, we found a pride of lions, two moms and four cubs, frolicking on some sand hills.

Word spread and soon there were five jeeps at the site. But the lions we oblivious to us, going about their business in spite of the audience. One of the cubs did something that annoyed the mother who chased after the cub, grabbed her by the scruff of the neck and returned her to their resting place. It was entertaining to say the least. Apparently, according to our guide, the male lion was close by but did not make his presence known.  We moved on to see guinea hens, baboons, warthogs, sable antelopes (elusive), bush pigs, kudu, a large herd of impala, buffalo, and two hippos who were on land, wandering through the bush

. Along the road, Justin noticed the sand imprint where the hippos had slept during the night. 

It was a chilly morning and our guide told us that some hippos would remain on land rather than spend their day in the cold river water. Hippos enjoy soaking in the warmth from the sun. No elephants this morning.

 

The light this morning was perfect for photos so we stopped many times to take pictures of animals and birds, of course, but also trees in the bush. Boabobs and fever trees (yellow trunks)

always attract attention but today tall dead trees in the bright sunlight under a blue sky were extremely photogenic.

The view of the bush road ahead of us was also delightful as were the narrow pathways created by animals as they move through the bush, usually in search of water.

 

Soon it was time to return to the lodge for breakfast, another sumptuous feast, elegantly served by courteous and friendly staff. One more trip back to the cabin to complete the packing and we climbed into a jeep. A special farewell awaited us at the gate.

  We boarded a boat that would take us to the pick-up point as we headed onto the next chapter of our journey. The boat ride was almost an hour, time to see many more birds and several hippos.

 

Our driver, Ephraim, came to pick us up and we headed off to our next destination, Makokola Retreat. We passed through several villages, markets abound and people walking or biking along the road. Some of the bikes had cushioned back seats on them. They were taxis. We saw several of them in use, an inexpensive but efficient way to reach a destination. This area of Malawi has a strong Moslem presence and we passed by many, many small mosques

along the way. We also saw two or three Christian churches, holding Sunday services.

 

It did not take very long to reach our destination, a very beautiful facility and landscape. Makokola Resort is on the shore of Lake Malawi, visible from our room. It is a lovely view overlooking the gardens and lawn that lead us to the beach. We checked in and settled into our new room. It has been several days since we have had some ‘down’ time and we have fully enjoyed the rest of the afternoon in our room.

 

It is dinner time now and we are going to the resort restaurant. Drinks are included in our package so I think we will both enjoy a glass of wine with our meal.