Rarotonga, Cook Islands

  

Tuesday, June 4, 2024

 

We arose this morning with mixed feelings. It was our last breakfast on our deck overlooking the lagoon. And soon after we had to bid farewell to this wonderful paradise and to new friends, Jeff and Tiffany. We packed up our luggage (we do not travel light) and headed to the reception deck to await our taxi to the airport. All loaded and buckled in, we waved farewell to Etu Moana and set out on the next part of our adventure.

Destination: Rarotonga

 

After a short wait at the airport, we boarded our plane and rose into the sky, the only view from the window was the fading of Aitutaki in the distance and then the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean in every direction. It was a short and comfortable flight and only 40 minutes later we landed at our next destination, Rarotonga. We will be here for a week.

 

A delightful taxi driver picked us up from the airport and delivered us to our resort, The Sanctuary. We were quick to notice the differences between Rarotango and Aitutaki. The main road to our resort was a constant stream of commercial establishments. Souvenir shops, cafes, small grocery stores, small businesses and long lines of cars travelling to unknown places. It took about half an hour to reach our resort. We had never encountered such business in Aitutaki.

 

We registered at the resort and offloaded our luggage. Our room was not yet prepared so we sat in a large room with a sand floor and enjoyed a beverage served by Aquila, (“like tequila, only better,” he told us). Once settled in our room, we enjoyed the ocean view. Our own little patio with chairs and loungers, protected from the sun by large palm trees. The ocean spread out before us. Like Aitutaki, Rarotonga has a reef surrounding the island. The reef protects the island from the powerful breakers that explode on the reef. The open ocean was wild and the reef was consistently covered with white foam from the breaking swells. The sound was amazing. Yet, the lagoon remained quiet.

 

We unpacked and had a nap. We enjoyed the amenities of our room and the roar of the ocean. Before we knew it, the sun was setting and it was time for dinner. There are several restaurants nearby but tonight, we chose to stay in house and returned to the table where we had waited for our room. Aquila took our dinner order – a beautiful salad with fresh prawns. It was so big that Jim and I were able to share a single portion. We decided to try the island fries as well. Though they look like potato fries, they were quite different, made from several island vegetables (taro, potatoes, kumara and arrowroot). They are deep fried and seasoned with salt. Each fry was very large and thick. Truly we did not enjoy them and they were far too large to finish. So much for that experience. Island fries are off our list.

 

Bedtime arrived and we were happy to put our heads on our pillows. Tomorrow will be a new day, filled with new adventures.

 

Wednesday, June 5, 2024

 

We had a full day today. We spent part of the morning sitting on our patio overlooking the lagoon, the reef and the incredible waves that were crashing on the reef. They were so large that some of them actually crossed the reef and created smaller breakers within the lagoon. They travelled quickly to the shore where they literally exploded into the air. I cannot imagine how it must be feeling as a passenger or crew on any ship in the open ocean. The power was amazing and the huge breakers continued all day. No swimming in the lagoon today.

 

We rented a car to help us explore this island. Rarotonga is very different from Aitutaki. First if all it is much larger and attracts far more tourists. It feels a bit crowded and deeply commercialized. There is only one road around the entire island, paralleling the shoreline. But almost every inch of it is occupied by a resort or other commercial developments. Cars are far more prevalent here than scooters (helmets are required here), making it much harder to drive. There are actual traffic jams in some places. We stopped at a couple of ‘grocery’ stores. I use that term lightly as they were both tiny with limited merchandise and almost no fresh fruit or vegetables. Both stores were well stocked with dog food and treats. We have seen a myriad of dogs in towns and rural areas.

They seem to be well cared for and actually belong to a household. I guess there is a big call for food to feed them.

 

To get out of the traffic we turned onto a sideroad which led to another narrow road that seemed to parallel the main highway.

 

We were grateful to be out of the maddening crowd and actually experience some agriculture. Roosters and chickens still hold the record for frequency but we also saw several goats, a few pigs and two cows. There were also very large gardens that had been planted and were well attended. Crops included tomatoes, breadfruit, taro, bananas, papaya, and manioc (tapioca). We also passed by fields of wild plants and weeds. Not every plot has been cleared and planted.

 

Mountains dominate the middle of the island but there are no roads that cross them.

The road we were on did climb fairly high and we were able to have a panoramic view of the Pacific. It was beautiful!! We also came upon a Polynesian spiritual centre. We followed the long drive up a very steep hill and found some sacred areas at the top. It is called Highland Paradise and has a mandate to maintain Polynesian culture through generations by providing music, drumming, storytelling and dancing to groups of young people. We discovered that there was a dinner/entertainment event tonight so we immediately made the decision to attend.  How fortunate were we!!

 

We returned to our hotel and prepared to go out for dinner. For me, that involved a total dismantling of my luggage as things that started out as organized have been moved around with no structure at all. Who knew where anything was? We did manage to find appropriate attire, packed our camera and waited at the front of our resort for a bus to arrive to pick us up.

 

Right on time, the bus with the big red label stopped  for us to board. The bus was already full of people from other resorts. We got the last two seats. The bus followed the same sideroad we had been on earlier and the driver identified many plants along the way. He turned the bus into the steep road up to our destination and told everyone to hold on. Narrow road, steep slopes and no guard rails. But we got there without incident.

 

The evening began with a welcome drink and a short presentation about how the event would unfold as well as some local Polynesian history. 

The group was then invited to visit a burial ground in a nearby field. It has been deliberately preserved so that all Maori on the island can trace their ancestry back to those who are buried there. When we returned to the main area (thankfully enclosed) and a lavish buffet dinner was served. So many local foods and cultural delicacies. It was an amazing and mostly delicious feast. We sat with a couple from New Zealand and enjoyed a lively conversation with them.

 

Following the meal, the entertainment began. First a troupe of singers with ukuleles and guitars sang some traditional Maori songs.

Following that, we were introduced to a team of five drummers who used several different drums in their presentation. Many of the drums were traditional Maori instruments. Then came the dancers. First a group of four amazing young men who dazzled us with their energy, stamina and dance moves that often included rapid shaking of their legs from a crouch position. Ouch!! Then came the young women, six in total, in costumes that included well placed coconut shells and grass skirts and flowered head pieces. They were graceful, beautiful and clearly loved to dance in this traditional style.

The evening was punctuated by a narrator who brought Maori culture to life as the evening went on. Overall, it was an amazing and informative evening, both culturally and gastronomically. And all too soon it came to an end. Now back in our resort, we are reflecting on the experience and very happy that we went.

 

Where does time go? The day is over. Time for sleep. A new adventure awaits us tomorrow.

 

Thursday, June 6, 2024

 

Another wild and windy day at the beach. No snorkelling again today. The breakers are breathtaking in their size, sound and power. We feel fortunate that there is a wide lagoon separating us from the open ocean. Even the lagoon is quite riled up.

 

So we spent a leisurely morning at the resort. A casual breakfast, interacting with some friendly staffers, a walk to the other side of the resort to check out the activities centre (we were totally flabbergasted at the array of children’s facilities and activities, including a small water park and a large swimming pool). The event we had thought about participating in today was cancelled due to the rugged water. Oh well …

 

So we headed out in our car again to explore more of the island. Rarotonga is a long narrow island with high rugged mountains in the middle.

Many people make their homes in the foothills of these mountains but there are no roads that actually cross the island.

The main road is the coastal road which encircles the entire island. But, there is another somewhat parallel road just a short distance inland from the coastal road. In fact, this inland road was the first road built on Rarotonga, constructed around 1200 BC. It meanders up and down hillsides with many homes of various sizes, ages and designs. Cattle, pigs, goats and a myriad of chickens and roosters live along the road, some clearly owned by nearby residents and others totally on their own. The other most common animal is the dog. Quite a contrast to Aitutaki where dogs were not allowed. Some of the dogs were domesticated but many seemed to fend for themselves. One in particular chose the middle of the road for a nap. Even as the car crawled toward him, he did not move. In the end, we had to actually drive around this sleeping dog.

 

There was evidence of substantial agriculture along the old highway. Vegetable gardens abounded with many different crops. Tomatoes are just coming into season and held tightly to the vines until ripened. Papayas appeared on many properties and in several places had been planted in orchard style. The fruit grows on the trunk of the pant, not the branches. It was common to see 10 – 12 papayas on a tree.

 

Between the drive we took yesterday and today’s route, we have now explored the entire inland roadway. It does not extend around the whole island. We still have not circled the island on the coastal road. That awaits our attention.

 

We passed through the capital city of the Cook Islands, Avarua. It was quite small but had many company headquarters, government buildings and commercial establishments. A particularly prominent building was the Court of Justice. We also happened upon the island hospital high on a hillside. This hospital serves all 15 of the Cook Islands. Seriously ill or injured … fly to Rarotonga for treatment.

 

Further along the coastal road (now on our way back to the resort), we stopped at the home of the Representative of the King.

Jim took some photos but there was a clear sign that you were only welcome on the property by invitation. We could not find our invitation so we carried on our way. I wonder who their King’s Representative might be.

 

Once we got back to the resort, it was not long before we had to meet the tour bus and head out for tonight’s activity. A well known event on Rarotonga is the Progressive Dinner. Sponsored by Cook Island Tourism, groups of about 30 people were invited to visit three private homes, one for appetizers,

one for a main course, and one for dessert. The food was prepared by the hosts and included only traditional ‘Raro’ recipes.

It was a delightful evening, spent with 28 strangers who, over the course of the evening, became friends. The hosts were all gracious and friendly and shared stories about their lives which generated a lot of laughter. They are all Cook Island afficionados and would never choose to move anywhere else. Rarotonga is a decidedly Christian community so each host offered prayers as we arrived and again to send us on our way. Somehow, it seemed appropriate as these welcoming people opened their homes to international strangers. One of the interesting things we learned that night is that when a family member of a landowner dies, the person is buried on the property.

Interesting.  Ukeleles were on hand and songs accompanied our conversations and our food.

What a great way to better understand the culture and cuisine of this island.

 

It was late by the time the bus dropped us off at our resort but we could not resist the temptation to step out of our room onto the sand beach and gaze toward the sky. The array of stars was breathtaking in the dark sky. We are in the southern hemisphere so we could not recognize many  constellations but the Southern Cross stood out from all the rest. It was a magical way to complete another busy day.

 

Friday, June 7, 2024

 

We spent a quieter day yesterday, mostly at the resort. Our room looks directly out at the lagoon and the reef. The waves beyond the reef continue to be enormous causing huge white foam as they break over the reef. At times, smaller waves make there way all the way across the lagoon to the shore right across the beach from our room. Although the waves are smaller, they still considerable splash as the break on the shore. Sadly, the lagoon is still too turbulent for us to feel safe going snorkelling. And so we wait.

 

As the afternoon wore on, we wandered into the ‘other side’, the part of the resort designed for families. We attended a very feeble fish feeding activity. There were lots of fish splashing about in the water trying grab some of the bread that was throw. Trevali were the most common and aggressive but there were also two varieties of soft blue fish and another blackish fish with almost neon blue down his sides.

We are hoping that finally we will get into the water. The weather forecast is favourable.

 

 

We decided to go out for dinner rather than eat at the resort. With no where in particular in mind, we turned right at the gate and drove along the highway looking for something interesting. Finally we found a lively place that was crowded with patrons. We saw several tables on the beach so we parked and wandered in. Little did we know how large Charlie’s was. There was an enormous indoor space with live music and an interesting menu. We chose to sit inside and selected our food – fish tacos for me and a fish sandwich for Jim. We learned that you needed to go to the bar to order, both food and beverage. When you order, you get a table number and then wait patiently for your food. It was well worth the wait. The tacos were delicious and a manageable portion. Jim’s sandwich was also delicious but it was more than large enough for two people. Nonetheless, Jim did his best and managed to devour the whole thing.

 

It was well past dark when we drove home. It was out first experience being out after sundown. Fortunately the road was quite quiet with only the occasional scooter moving along. The general speed limit is 50 KPM and we were quite comfortable driving at that speed. It was pitch dark and there were no street lights. We were grateful when we made it home.

 

The sky was ablaze with stars again last night. It is a challenge at home to find such a dark place to view stars. No clouds, dark sky, thousands of stars. Magnificent! What a great way to end the day.

Saturday, June 8, 2024

 

It’s market day in Avarua, the capital city of the Cook Islands, and just a short drive down the road for us. We finished breakfast and headed straight for the car. It was about 10 am when we got there and parking was at a premium. 

We made a wrong turn and started to go the wrong way on a one way driveway. Boy, the parking attendant was quick to stop us and tell us off. In trying to right the wrong, I turned into a short laneway to switch directions and the

same parking attendant took exception to my exit plan. He scolded us again and walked away shaking his head. (“Damn tourists,” was what I was sure he was thinking.)

 

We enjoyed the market which was quite large and very crowded. What a draw for tourists. We saw several other guests from our resort perusing the merchandise as well. It was a mixed market, fruits and vegetables in season (mostly starchy things like taro and cassava) and year round bananas and coconuts with milk. There were lots of stalls selling Cook Island jewellery (black pearls and shells), beachwear, pareu (sarongs), hand woven hats, Polynesian shirts, flower headpieces, ukuleles, and other assorted merchandise.

 

We did purchase a colourful pareu and a few brightly coloured flowers but we left everything else for the other visitors. A mango smoothie completed our visit and we headed back to the resort. We made one stop along the way to a bakery that was doing a lively business. Of course, we purchased a couple of appealing items and brought them home for a snack later.

 

Back at the resort, we finally had a chance to go snorkelling. The waves at the reef had calmed down a bit and the water in the lagoon was much calmer as well. I was surprised to feel the strength of the current when we got into the water. It kept pushing us further away from the resort. Fortunately we were able to see several varieties of fish as we moved along but I got nervous about potentially not being able to get to shore again. Jim and another man helped me climb the steep hill back to the main part of the beach. Then, uncharacteristically, Jim headed back into the water in a different direction and continued to snorkel for a long time. He was very successful in seeing schools of fish, many different varieties.

 

Once Jim was out of the water, we dripped off into the sand sufficiently that we could go to the bar and enjoy an afternoon beverage. I have ordered a different drink each time. So far my favourite is Sand Between Your Toes. After indulging in our beverages, we returned to the pool near our room. Jim was done with water for the day but I was able to rinse off the salt in the fresh water pool and thoroughly enjoy swimming and floating about. 

 

The afternoon had waned and it was time to think about dinner. The most famous restaurant on the island is Trader Jack’s in Avarua. It is about a half hour drive from our resort along the coastal highway. We had been to Avarua in the morning for the market but it was worth the drive back into town to enjoy a meal at Trader Jack’s. The sunset was amazing.

 

Jim ordered a pokie bowl (raw tuna) and I chose fish and chips. Although we both enjoyed our food, I have to be honest and say that we would go back to Charlie’s (last night’s dinner) before going to Trader Jack’s again. We still have two more nights here so we can make some choices about where we eat.

 

The drive home was dark. We were glad to arrive only to discover that Jim had locked the room key in the room. Oops!! The desk clerk was very happy to issue a new one and once again we are comfortably installed in our room for the night.

 

 

 

 

Sunday, June 7, 2024

 

It’s Sunday again. How does a week go by so quickly? It was another glorious day … bright sunshine, brisk wind and a little cooler but overall quite lovely. We decided that today was the day to circumnavigate the entire island. And to take some photos of things we have missed along the way. Right after a late breakfast, we jumped in the car and turned right out onto the road. We always have to be careful about left and right since we are driving on the left hand side of the road. Fortunately there is very little traffic, especially on a Sunday morning.

 

We passed by many familiar places as we travelled along. We stopped to take photos of the grocery store where we had shopped; Charlie’s, the restaurant that we enjoyed so much

; parkland overlooking the ocean

; a dog … they are everywhere here; the Department of Justice building in Avarua

; the bakery where we bought some goodies; the mountains the run down the middle of the island;

Trader Jack’s where we ate last night

… and probably some others as well.

 

We estimated it would take us about 3 hours to circle the island. When we got to what we thought was the south end of the island, we were amazed that the mountains looked a lot like the ones at the north end of the island. Hmmm. That should have been a BIG clue. But we carried on, only half way through our drive. We entered a town from the south and enjoyed looking at all the shops as well as a lovely divided roadway that took us right along the coast. Some of the shops were open, especially cafes and tourist shops. It was only when we found the market that we had visited yesterday that we realized we were in Avarua. No wonder the mountains looked so familiar. We were already back at the north end of the island. Rarotonga is clearly much smaller than we realized. Back in familiar territory, we stopped at the same bakery we had been in yesterday to get Jim a coffee. I was already sipping a Coke Zero. Maybe the caffeine will wake us up!!

 

We finished our bakery treats and our caffeine drinks when we got back to the resort. Jim wanted to go snorkelling again so we headed over to the activities side of the resort. Snorkelling yesterday was difficult for me so I decided to stay on dry land. I ordered a drink (coffee topped with whipping cream) and sat at the edge of the deck to watch Jim. He had a great time and stayed in the water for a long time. When he emerged he said that he had seen more varieties of fish than ever before. A very successful venture.

We returned to our room for some down time. I worked on the blog and photos while Jim read more about things to do here and in Malawi.  But our day was not yet done ...

There was a Night Market

just down the road from the resort. It started at 5 pm. It actually operates 4 nights per week. We expected it to be a traditional market with merchandise to purchase, fresh foods on display and maybe some entertainment. We were wrong on all counts. We had seen a myriad of tables on the site as we drove by earlier in the week. We assumed that those would be for the vendors and customers would browse along each aisle. Instead, those tables were filled with customers enjoying a wide selection of foods from the many food stalls that lined the perimeter of the site.

Everything from hamburgers and fries to fresh fish cooked as you watched. Delicious looking crepes came out of one stall. Asian food selections were abundant. It was hard to choose what to order. In the end, we had barbecued shrimp on skewers and Jim had a lamb chop as well. We had decided to share a meal and that was a great decision. The portion sizes were too large to handle independently. Freshly squeezed lemonade accompanied our meal. We could have chosen fresh coconut milk instead. We were more than thrilled to find this food market. Another wonderful event.

We returned to our resort just in time to take in the trivia event. About 16 people gathered to answer obscure questions. Although we did not score very highly, it was still fun and peppered with laughter. We returned to our room and settled in for the night. Only one day left in Rarotonga. Another week has flashed before our eyes!