Malawi - Part 4

  

Sunday, June 30, 2024

 

Let’s talk about the weather. Naively, when we came to Africa, we thought it was going to be very warm, even hot. So we brought summer clothes with a couple of warmer items just in case. We are very glad we brought a sweater and a jacket because in June and July, it is not hot or, on some days, not even warm.

 

It is winter here … yes there is no snow or frost, but in the early morning, it is cold. We have worn both sweaters and jackets on many days. The day warms up and because it is the dry season, there is virtually no rain. But those early morning game runs in an open jeep with the wind blowing through my hair have been quite uncomfortable at times. Excited to see the elephants and zebra but cold, nonetheless. As we have travelled north, the daily temperature has warmed up but it has never been ’tropical’. By midday, it is pleasantly warm but certainly not swimming weather. Most places we have stayed have had pools but my bathing suit has remained in my suitcase throughout. All those sleeveless tops are at the bottom of the suitcase, still clean to take home.

 

Having said all of that, we do feel this is the best time to come to Malawi (and maybe other African countries as well) because the sun shines brightly every day, there has been virtually no rain, and, very importantly, the mosquito population is very small. It is not humid and the nights are very comfortable for sleeping whether in a tent or in a building. Buildings are not insulated at all and the windows, even when closed, allow a breeze to blow through. Most places have tightly made screens which discourage even the most eager of insects from getting in. Although mosquito netting is installed around most beds, we have seen very few mosquitoes. We use the netting when it is available because we seriously do not want to contract malaria. Getting up In the night can be a bit of a challenge due to the task of fighting with the fabric to get out of the bed.

 

Today, we are leaving yet another lovely resort

and heading to Nkhata Bay for one night. Our next adventure is boarding the Ilala, a cargo ship that plies Lake Malawi with supplies that cannot be delivered in any other way. We will stop at several islands on the lake and end up in Monkey Bay in about 3 days.

 

Although most of the passengers will be travelling and sleeping on the open deck, Jim has managed to book one of the six cabins on the ship for our use. Thank goodness for that. I think the nights could be most chilly although the sunsets, sunrises and the stars will be spectacular. More about that later.

 

When we reached Nkhata Bay, it became clear that we were not going to be able to stay at the lodge where we had a reservation. It was high on a mountain and there were at least fifty steps from the parking lot to the building. There was no way that I could manage that, especially since there was no railing. So, now what?

 

An employee from that lodge saw our predicament and offered to help. He knew of another place just down the road that probably had space (it is definitely low season at the moment). He hopped into the car and directed us there. Indeed, there was a room at Ndau Lodge. It was a lovely place on a hill just above Lake Malawi and only 9 steps to manage. We checked in and were able to transfer our payment from the first lodge to the place where we stayed. Perfect!!

 

The dining area was actually on the lake, about 20 steps down. The staff set up a table for us right outside our room and we were able to eat there instead. We had a lovely view of the lake from where we ate.

 

Tired after another day of driving, we fell into bed early and slept until morning.

 

Monday, July 1, 2024

 

                                                Happy Canada Day!

 

Breakfast outside our room and a quiet day for us. Jim (the man from the other lodge) picked Jim up to go to the ferry terminal to pay for our journey to Monkey Bay. It was very helpful to have his assistance since he knew the community well. We were able to arrange a late check-out as the Ilala did not set sale until late in the evening. Promptly at 5:30 pm, Jim (from the resort) picked us up again in a taxi and we were off to the ferry terminal.

 

We knew that the Ilala would be crowded and also, that we would have to take a tender from the shore to the boat. What we did not know was what an adventure that would be.

 

The dock area was streaming with people and cargo. Wooden boats that safely held 22 people (that was painted on the side of the boat) piled up to 40 people and all of their luggage and parcels and baskets into the boats. Talk about overloading!! 

Happily, Jim (from the resort) had arranged for a private boat to take us out to the Ilala. The first challenge was getting into the boat. It was dark and our boat pulled up to the shore where there was a steep slope and then a large drop to the water’s edge. With a strong man on each arm, I made it down the hill to the drop. At that point, I was instructed to climb on another man’s back and he would carry me to the boat. I absolutely weighed more than he did but somehow, with me screaming, we made it to our tender. I was literally dumped into the boat and reassured that we would make it out to the Ilala and they would get me on.

 

We made our way across the bay to the awaiting ship. Several other wooden boats loaded with many people also had the same destination. The loaded boats fought for space to unload their passengers and not a single one was interested in letting us into the queue. So another idea came to fore. Near the bow of the ship was a cargo bay where large parcels of who knows what were hoisted up onto the ship. Little did I know that, Plan B was to get me on the ship in a similar way. Before I could ask what was happening, two men on our boat lifted me high into the air and two burly boatmen on the ship grabbed my arms and pulled. Somehow, I made it onto the ship. Unbelievable!!!

 

But the adventure was not over yet. With Jim behind me and another man in front, we made our way through the crowd of hundreds of people and their goods, all crowded into tiny spaces with no room to move. You see, the Ilala has several classifications on passengers, ranging from First Class (us) with cabins, second class who were allowed onto the passenger floor and steerage, people who had to remain in the cargo bay and sit on the floor or their packages.

 

So, off we went, weaving our way through the jam-packed crowd, with the man in front literally moving people out of the way so we could get through. The floor was almost invisible as we stepped from bag to bag, most filled with rice or potatoes. At one point, I paused to pull up my jeans but before I could do that someone behind me did it for me. Yikes!! Always helpful and kind.

 

We finally reached the stairs to the first class area, a daunting challenge … Eleven narrow steps that were crowded with people and parcels moving up and down. I give great credit to the man who was leading me. Somehow he managed to clear the stairs so I could climb. At last, we reached the first class deck. A gate closed behind us but the staircase filled with people clamouring to get up onto our deck so that they could find floor space to sit on for the journey.

 

It was noisy, crowded, and colourful, and certainly an adventure. What we do know is that there is a dock in Monkey Bay where we will disembark. And we are in no hurry to be at the front of the line! Last off will work just fine!!

 

And truthfully, I had no idea where Jim was or how he got into the ship. What I do know is that we were assigned to the owner’s cabin and eventually, Jim and all of our luggage arrived. Whew!

 

And so, our trip on the Ilala on Lake Malawi had begun.

The Ilala was first launched in 1951 and has been plying the waters as a cargo and passenger ship ever since. To say, it is a well worn vessel would be an understatement! The itinerary begins a northern port on the lake. The ship travels the lake once a week … one week, south and the next week, north. Nkata Bay, where we boarded is about a third of the way down the lake. We are going to Monkey Bay which is quite far south. There are two or three stops along the way, two of them on lake islands that can only get food, merchandise and equipment from this ship. The trip from Nkata Bay to Monkey Bay will be 2.5 days, two nights of sleeping on the ship.

 

Now, about the owner’s cabin. I had expected something a bit luxurious, or at least modest and clean. There are clearly different standards here than on more familiar passenger ships. Let’s start by saying it is run down. The bedding, though clean, is well worn. The bathroom fixtures are old and stained (I am not complaining … this is the only cabin on the ship that has a bathroom). The furniture is well worn although the beds are reasonably comfortable. Yes, beds … two singles with drawers underneath for storage. We have not looked in them. The cabin was probably painted about 20 years ago judging from the colour choice, and the painter was not worried about drips on the floor. The floor while swept and mopped has age old stains that are permanent fixtures. There is a full sized modern refrigerator, a fan that does not work and one receptacle to use for any appliances like computers or phones. (Fortunately we brought adaptors and a power bar with us.) The windows open and there is a screen door and a lovely breeze flows the room. Nonetheless, it is a private cabin with a toilet. There are four other cabins on the ship, with no toilets. The only other option is floor seating outside for the entire trip.

 

Tuesday, July 2, 2024

 

Our day started early, as the ship pulled into Likoma Island somewhere around 6 am. We had actually slept through the first stop at Chizumulu which happened in the deep dark of night.

 

Likoma Island is home to a lively community and a well known tourist destination for Malawians and international travellers.

Not surprisingly, many, many people disembarked at Likoma along with all their luggage and supplies. Food comes on the Ilala; equipment comes on the Ilala; new cars and bicycles come on the Ilala; furniture comes on the Ilala. You get the picture. Boat after boat after boat visited the ship

and returned to the shore loaded with passengers and goods. It literally took hours to empty the hold with items destined for Likoma. Hundreds of passengers also disembarked. Boats from the village pulled in beside the ship and 22 passengers boarded each boat. There seemed to be much greater compliance here than in Nkata Bay. Then came the new passengers and all the packages they brought with them.

Again, boat after boat after boat. The ship had emptied out for a short time and the decks were almost empty. But, it was not long before they were all filled again.

 

And noisy … boatmen yelling at ship crew; passengers having ordinary conversations in loud voices over the noise of the ship. There is a small dining room in the middle of our deck and it seems to be the only place to find quiet. Part of that is because most people bring their own food on board while tourists such as us, buy food in the dining room. The menu is limited and the patrons, few.

 

After several hours of boats plying back and forth from shore, passengers were all on board and cargo was in place. The most interesting cargo from our point of view, were several handhewn canoe-like vessels.

We think there must be a competition somewhere as the ‘canoe’ owners came on board as well. Finally, the last boat left the side of the ship and all openings were secured for the continuation of our journey. The ship slowly moved forward from the bay into the open water of the lake and we continued our journey south.

 

The rest of the day was warm and sunny. The deck outside our door was filled with people and their noise. Five army men have moved into the cabin beside ours and are enjoying a lively conversation (aka loud) on the deck. We are in our cabin enjoying the sea breeze and the creature comforts. It is many hours before we stop at another port.

 

We reached Nkhota Kota about 7 o’clock that night. Just as life unfolded at Likoma on the Mozambique side of the lake, it happened all over again in this port. Boat after boat after boat filled with passengers and luggage and cargo plied the calm water of Lake Malawi to the Ilala. And it all happened in the dark. It was fun to lean over the railing and watch the boats come and go and come again. What would they bring them this time? Perhaps, live ducks!!

Finally the mayhem ended and people found places to sleep for the night.

One popular location was the deck at the bow of the boat which happened to be right outside our cabin windows. People and all their bags and baskets were piled high on the deck. Some experienced travellers had brought pillows and blankets to create a makeshift bed. Some simply leaned up against the wall. Babies were nestled on their mothers’ backs and were remarkably calm among the chaos.

 

It was about 10 pm before the ship was calm again. We were not scheduled to leave the port until 5 am. That provided an opportunity for the crew to get some much-needed sleep before embarking once more in the morning.

 

Wednesday, July 3, 2024

 

When we awoke in the morning after sleeping very soundly, we were surprised to find that the Ilala had already been underway for about two hours. The ship was in Chipoka before we woke up. We must have been very tired.

 

Once again, piles of people and their goods were disembarking on the boats that came to retrieve them from the Ilala. The boats, filled to capacity, headed for shore. When empty, the boats plied the water once more to pick up another load. At the same time additional boats were bringing people to board the Ilala. From our point of view, it looked like sheer chaos.

And it was happening on both sides of the ship. We have many photos of overloaded boats, people jumping from one boat into another, and struggling to get on the Ilala while people were still disembarking. We were very happy to be on the upper deck from which we could see all of the action but not be a part of any of it. We had already had that experience when we boarded on Monday night.

Once everyone who needed to be on board had arrived all leavers had exited, the Ilala continued on its journey. We needed to cross the lake to get to the next port of call, Makanjila, While we were underway, we went to the restaurant (known as the saloon) for breakfast. Several choices were available but we especially enjoy the omelettes in this country and we indulged ourselves again. We chatted with some other passengers, a young couple in love. Charlie is from the UK and Meela is actually from Malawi. They have maintained a long distance relationship for two years and are now together and travelling. They were both very pleasant and knowledgeable. We enjoyed spending time with them! They think we are brave souls for undertaking the journey we are on.

I returned to the cabin but Jim was looking for another adventure. Bananas had come on board and he wanted some. He found a vendor and asked how many bananas 2000 kwacha would purchase (about $1.75 in Canada). The man started to count out bananas and finally gave up and gave Jim the entire bunch.

We arrived at Makanjila and the same embarking and disembarking melee took place. One difference this time was that there were several dugout canoes that had been loaded at various ports.

They were all set back into the water and the owners jumped into the lake to chase them as they floated away. What great swimmers they were. Once they connected with their canoe, each one spent some time bailing the water that had made its way into the canoe. Then they easily climbed on board by swinging one leg across the canoe and straddling the craft while they paddled to move forward. It was clear they were all very comfortable both in the water ad on top of it. We heard that all of the paddlers were headed for a lengthy ride to a location far south of where we were. What an undertaking!

 

Under a sunny sky, we continued our journey south to Monkey Bay. It is a well known port of call, the last one on this journey. Happily, Monkey Bay has a dock so the Ilala was able to pull up to it to make for a level landing. Some boatmen assisted with our luggage so all Jim and I had to do was to get off the boat. What an ordeal!! First, we had to go down a long crowded corridor to a set of very shallow stairs.

The staircase was crowded and any progress was very slow. When we got the bottom, that deck was filled with people carrying large parcels on their heads or under their arms, trying to make their way to the exit just as we were.  We were stuck at the bottom of the stairs until a kind man intervened and stopped the procession so we could join the fray. The best news was that early in this fray we had laid eyes on our familiar driver, Jordan, who was waiting for us in the crowd. He and the porters took our luggage to our vehicle while Jim and I slowly made our way across a very badly maintained bridge. It was a relief to finally reach the van and climb aboard for our drive to Chembe, about an hour away. One quick stop on the way out … we met Mary with whom Jim has corresponded for months in planning this trip. He appreciated being able to meet her and thank her in person for all the effort she has put into ensuring we have a great experience. She is single handedly the person who arranged that we had the owner’s cabin on board. Did we ever appreciate that!

In the car, Jordan skillfully took us out of town and onto a main highway (potholes and all). We went through some rugged terrain and up and down a mountain to reach our destination.

 

Chembe is a village on Cape Maclear, one of the most visited tourist destinations in Malawi. Sadly, we are only here for one night. We are staying in a well equipped and clean cabin at Eagles Nest. Dinner was served on our front porch and the sunset was gorgeous.

In winter, mosquitoes are few and far between so we were able to enjoy a leisurely meal as evening turned to night. A gin and tonic nightcap completed another full day. It is time for some sleep as tomorrow will bring new experiences. Good night!

 

 

Thursday, July 4, 2024

 

What a lovely morning. The sun was high and the air was warm. After three days on the Ilala, we were happy to have a hot shower in a modern bathroom. Breakfast was served at 7:30 on our front porch looking out at Lake Malawi on terra firma.

 

Soon, a fishing boat, well maintained and brightly coloured pulled up to the shore in front of our lodge. We were going on tour of fish in the lake. On advice from a KW travel physician, we have chosen not to swim or snorkel in the lake due to the presence of bilharzia bacteria that could potentially lead to schistosomiasis. If we were younger, we might have taken the risk but we are no longer younger and have to be more cautious about our choices. So, this boat trip was the closest alternative we could find. Peter was our guide and our driver, Jordan, joined us as well.

 

First, we took a tour of the village along the waterfront. When we drove in last night, we noticed that the village was extremely long and narrow. The view from the lake told us why. This is a fishing village.

Almost every home fronts onto the water and in front of every house was a fishing boat similar to the one we were on. The beach was busy as we passed by because the boats had just arrived in from a might of fishing and the fish were being cleaned and set out to dry under the sun. Men brought the fish to shore and women cleaned them and placed them on drying racks.

 

The other primary activity along the beach was laundry. If not involved with the fish, women brought buckets of clothes down to the water and washed each item by hand. Some received gentle treatment and some clearly needed more to ensure they were clean. That seemed to involve soap and wringing of the clothes as well as smashing them onto a rock several times. This cycle continued until the clothing was deemed clean. Then the clothes were set out on unoccupied fish tables or on nearby bushes to dry in the sun.

We crossed the bay to a peninsula where tropical fish are known to flourish. Peter brought bread with us to toss into the water to attract fish. Lake Malawi has over 1000 species of fish, many of which are not found anywhere else in the world. 700 of those species are known as cichlids and found only in Lake Malawi. What a treasure this lake is.

 

We were very happy with what we saw this morning. Although we do not know the names of the fish we saw, we could certainly identify the colours – green, purple, blue, grey, pinkish. Most of them were quite small but there were also others that were much larger.

 

The main species for commercial fishing are called Chambo. They are delicious to eat but do have a lot of bones. Due to the volume of fishing in the lake, the numbers of Chambo and other fish are being dramatically reduced. The fish being caught tend to be smaller than previously. Larger fish are generally found in small numbers farther the shore.

 

The water level in the lake is extremely high. One village person recounted that she had only seen it this high seventy years ago. Some buildings and fancy lodges were actually partially submerged along the shore.

Homes were generally set back a bit further but a few had still sustained damage due to the water level. Sandbags were apparent in many places. Although the water is beginning to recede, it will take a long time to reestablish a reasonable shoreline. In the meantime, the tourist trade in this village has been seriously reduced due the damage that has occurred.

The waters of Lake Malawi flow directly into the Shire River which we became familiar with at both Tawali and MVuu Lodges. The water levels at both locations were also extremely high, having drowned trees and plants and damaged buildings that were close to the water. It makes it difficult to reduce the water level in the lake when the only outlet is a river that has already overflowed its banks. What a horrible situation for everyone.

 

Back at the lodge, we loaded our luggage into the van one more time and headed out for today’s ride. After almost three weeks in Malawi, we were finally heading to Lilongwe, the capital city of Malawi. It was quite a long drive and took us in a new direction over new landscapes. We are now very familiar with the traditional villages along the roads and the market stalls that line the roadways. As we travelled toward Lilongwe, we passed through a range of mountains, having to climb high and then down the slopes. It was a slow process because of the number of trucks on the same road lumbering up the same mountains. The landscape was rugged and caused us to ask what the geology of the area was.

Boulders lay scattered over the mountain slopes, making us wonder if sometime in the country’s past there had been a huge explosion that sent these enormous boulders into the sky, only to land where they are found today. It was actually quite fascinating terrain.

 

As we climbed higher into the mountains, the crops at the roadside stalls began to change. Some items could no longer be found, fruit is one example, while new products appeared – cabbage, sweet potatoes, an abundance of casava meal and, interestingly, watermelon. (I know it is a fruit!) Bananas, apples and lemons seem to have disappeared. Tomatoes were still  in season.

We stopped outside of Lilongwe to visit a highly touted pottery shop where they produced the pottery they sold. It was quite a large operation. We enjoyed browsing and making a few selections but truly, we do not want to add to our collection at home. We have enough!!

 

As we continued on our journey, we began to see many large transport trucks carrying goods to other locations. Tractors caught our eye first, followed by double-carriage trucks with carefully covered cargo. Jordan was able to fill us in on some of what was happening. These trucks were carrying imports from a variety of countries – Tanzania, Madagascar, Mozambique, Kenya, South Africa and Zambia. The road we were on, the M1, was clearly a major transportation corridor for importing goods.

It was fascinating to think that we were relatively close to all those countries. For us, Africa is becoming much more than a continent on a map.

 

And finally, we made it to Lilongwe. Traffic congestion at its finest greeted us as we approached the city. It was slow going for a long time. Roundabouts were crowded with cars, trucks, bicycles and motor bikes. It took a very long time to get to our hotel. One significant structure we saw was a very large football (soccer) stadium on the outskirts of town. Very impressive.

Once again, Sarai, with whom Jim has been closely connected in planning this journey, made a wonderful suggestion for a place to stay. It was late afternoon by the time we were in our room. All the basics were there … a comfortable bed with mosquito netting, a clean bathroom, a large modern shower, and the internet. We have been out of contact for four days!! It was great to be able to finally read our email and to make sure our bank accounts were solvent.

 

Dinner was at 6:30, beautifully presented – pumpkin soup, fish, potatoes and vegetables followed by an absolutely delicious chocolate mousse. And now we have settled in for the evening.  Ahhhhh!

 

 

Friday, July 6, 2024

 

We spent the day touring Lilongwe. Jordan picked us up right after breakfast and we headed out with a long list of places to visit and things to see. We had prepared a list for Jordan and he had a list of his own. While there was some overlap, the lists were quite different and we could tell it was going to be a very full day.

 

Our first stop was a fish shop, F for Fish, where there was a small display of Malawian fish found in Lake Milawi. It was a bit of a disappointment because although there were local fish in the tank, they were mixed with many fish from other countries as well. Nonetheless, it was an interesting stop.

From there, we travelled to the Lilongwe Animal Reserve. Happily, we were really looking for souvenirs, having seen so many animals already. The gift shop was open but as it turned out, there were no animals in the reserve anymore. They had all been rehomed several years ago. We did buy a couple of souvenirs which made it somewhat purposeful.

The day did improve with the next stop. Jordan wanted to be sure that we saw the memorial for the first prime minister of Malawi. He is the leader who transformed Malawi from a territory of Great Britain into an independent democracy. A much beloved Prime Minister. The memorial was amazing, large and beautiful, set in a big park next to the Parliament Building.

The Parliament Building was constructed in 2010 and is quite a modest building. It is a single story and very long. The Malawi flag was out front but since it was a very still day, it was not possible to actually see it fly. It was also not possible to go inside the building because it is necessary to apply for permission to enter two days prior to your visit.

There were several school groups visiting the memorial and the parliament building when we were there. Here is a photo of the transportation they used to and from school for the outing.

We moved on and visited a craft market, an outdoor event with many, many booths built with sticks and straw. Very rustic, very Malawian. I remained in the car while Jim and Jordan explored the crafts. In the end, they only made one purchase and returned to the car.

 

In some areas of Lilongwe, the gardens and roadside vegetation were beautiful. In fact, nurseries placed their plants in pots along the edge of the roads and sold them from there. When I asked if the ever got stolen, I got a solid "No" in response. Amazing! And speaking of amazing, we saw the largest poinsettia that we have ever seen just growing along the road.

Shortly after the craft market, we travelled on a very busy roadway, partially under construction and, like many other roadways, full of giant potholes. BANG!! Yes, a rear tire blew!! Jordan pulled to the side of the road and proceeded to change the tire using only manual tools. It has been a long time since we have changed a tire in Canada but there is no CAA here! Thankfully, we had our lawn chairs, a gift to Jordan, in the back of the van so Jim and I were able to sit under the shade of a large tree and watch Jordan skillfully change the tire and prepare the van to get back on the road.

An unscheduled stop to be sure and now Jordan has to buy a new tire as the old one was totally shredded.

Our next stop was the best stop. Zathu Arts is a Malawian social enterprise working and promoting local artisans. They handle Malawian handmade crafts and art collection. Wooden bowls and animals, all painstakingly hand carved; pottery and ceramic items, both large and small that were handed painted so that no two are alike; a variety of cloth items created from bright and colourful Malawian fabrics. Every stitch is hand done. Beautiful straw baskets and wall hangings created from grasses that were picked from the local fields and woven into works of art. Through this shop, all of these items are available for purchase and the money filters back to the local artists. It is very expensive to export small numbers of items from Malawi due to the cost of shipping. So Zathu tries to attract international visitors to the capital city as a way of spreading awareness of the culture and beauty of Malawi. And, yes, we did buy several items.

 

Now, Jim wanted a hair cut and a beard trim. He had seen a barber shop very close to the fish shop earlier in the day. So we headed back there and a short time later, Jim was neatly trimmed. Success!! Jordan has also used that shop so he felt confident that Jim would not be disappointed.

 

Back out onto the highway with every intention of going back to out hotel. The traffic was unbelievable and moved very slowly along the many roads that are under construction. According to Jordan, a huge amount of Chinese money has come into Malawi and new roads are how it is being used. Small roadways are being transformed into dual carriage expressways with huge roundabouts and overpasses. It will be years before all the projects are completed. In the meantime, traffic is congested and slow. Patience is critical!

 

As we travelled along, I noticed a very high white tower in the distance and asked Jordan what it was. He said that he had hoped to take us there today but we were now on our way back to the hotel. I said that if he felt it was important, then we should go there before heading home. So, we changed direction and headed toward the tower. We were very glad that we did. First of all it was impressive in size and beautiful in structure, towering high above the ground with what appeared to be carillons at the top (I forgot to ask Jordan to be sure). It stood in the middle of a large well-tended grassy area. 

In front of the tower, beyond the grass stood a statue of a man. Jordan explained that this is another place of honour for the first prime minister of Malawi, His Excellency Hastings Kamuzu Banda, clearly a much-revered person in the history of the country.

 

We arrived back at our hotel, happy about the day’s outing, but tired from the travel and the heat. They may call this winter but the sun and temperature today felt like a hot and sunny day at home. We were grateful for the air-conditioned comfort of our room.

 

Dinner awaits us at 7 pm and then we are done for the day. Tomorrow is a day of rest and relaxation at the hotel. Also, we need to find ways of packing so that our luggage is not overweight when we get to the airport on Sunday. We are flying to Livingston, Zambia to see Victoria Falls (3 days) and then on to Zambia to a highly recommended game park.(4 days).

 

And then it will be time to make our way back to Waterloo and resume real life. It is hard to believe that we have been in Malawi for three weeks. And yet, we have seen and done so much, can it really only be three weeks? We are looking forward to our new adventures next week and two more African countries. We are falling in love with this continent and fully intend to return.